Five of a Kind: Freshdirect's 4-minute Meals

I haven't written a "Five of a Kind" post for quite a long time--it requires a good deal of long-term planning and sometimes financial investment. But aren't we all constantly compiling lists in our head?  

Since I fractured my left ankle 2 months ago, I haven't been able to leave the apartment much. At first I had no appetite and no mood--things were easy. My craving for restaurants inevitably returned, however, and my suffering began. 

Sure, friends brought over take-out food once in a while and I have been able to dine out at nearby restaurants, but at best these occurs about once a week. And when you stay home as much as I have been, lunch and dinner take on an extra importance--I needed help.

My good friend/student Joe very generously bought me some food from Freshdirect and had it delivered to me, which awakened my interest in the service. Freshdirect started not long after I came to NYC 10 years ago, but I probably have used it only a handful of time, and practically none over the last half a decade. 

But now, it's my new best friend!  Especially these restaurant-pedigree TV dinners. Granted, they are much pricier than your Stouffer's or Lean Cuisine--these chef-attached meals cost around 7 to 9 dollars--but they have been a source of delight and excitement in my boring-ass apartment-bound life as of late. 

I haven't actually been to Rosa Mexicano. Amazingly, now I want to. While nothing will ever come close to looking like the photo on the box (which is sort of a food-packaging phenomenon if you think about it), I was very satisfied with the texture and taste of this meal. There was plenty of juicy chunks of chicken and the cheese and corns were nicely blended with the rice. 4/5

I find it humorous that Tabla, the only Danny Meyer restaurant to have closed, now has a second life in my fridge. I suppose this line of TV dinners was created while the restaurant was still alive, and its chef has found his second chance at North End Grill.

The surprising thing about this was the chicken came in a nice and big thigh piece that maintained its moistness. But I found the seasoning to be quite mild. As stated on the box: "no heat level", this clearly aimed to stay on the safe side and lost its appeal. 2.5/5

If Chef Terrance Brennan is worrying about his restaurants' business (Picholine has filed for bankruptcy), he might be able to depend on his TV dinner business: this risotto was quite fantastic! Miraculously all the greens stayed vibrant and the risotto was creamy with many bites of mushrooms. On top of that, there were cloves of browned garlic that were soft and sweet. 4/5

The Marrow

Give Chef Dieterle credit for opening up three restaurants now that focus individually on different corners of the culinary world (check out my visit to Kin Shop, his second, an interesting take on Thai), as opposed to creating copy cats based on successful predecessor (not that there's anything wrong with that when done right, like the Michael White, Jean-George V., and Batali of the world). 

Contrasting cuisines aside, both my visits to Kin Shop and The Marrow were marked by good food that carefully disguised their adventurous edges and an overall pleasant dinning experience carried out by the professional and friendly staff and comfortable and unpretentious spaces that don't scream for attention and where you actually weren't bumping elbows with the next table. 

The Bone Marrow--Sea urchin, meyer lemon aioli & baby celery greens

Even though the menus divides things up quite neatly into two halves--Italian on the left, and German/Austrian on the right, I found it difficult to order, mainly because it made it sort of obligatory (at least for me) to sample both sides--it was like having to order from two restaurants at the same time.  But such is the concept of the place and you gotta roll with it!  

As sinfully indulgent as the bone marrow dish seems, I didn't find the combination worked that well. The sea urchin wasn't of top quality, nor should it be considering the use, and it became just ornamental to the marrow.  

Prosciutto Wrapped Dates--gorgonzola & saba

Saba is a kind of Italian sweet, syrupy cooking wine made from grapes.  I like this a lot--the prosciutto was cooked (I don't know how, probably in the oven) so it was a bit crispy and the filling of the dates was sweet--too sweet perhaps for some.  

Bacalao Gnudi

The exact same version isn't on the menu anymore, but this was very good with a rather subtle contribution from the salted cod. The gnudi were pillowy soft. 

Pan-fried Duck Schnitzel--Quark spaetzle, hazelnuts, cucumber-potato salad & stewed wolfberries

While I haven't had that many Schnitzels in my life, this was by far the best. First of all, the breading was perfectly done on both sides and didn't fall apart or got mushy. The duck retained enough texture and juiciness--basically a nice breaded duck steak.  

Wolfberries, which I believe are more popularly known as Goji berries, were quite a shock because I have never had it in non-Asian food. This dish perfectly embodies what the restaurant is about: re-creating of something familiar with excellent execution and hidden surprises.  

Cafe China

There seems to be a new Szechuan restaurant popping up every few months recently in New York. As a lover of the cuisine and spicy food, this should come as good news. But the nature of the cuisine--usually an (over) abundance of chili peppers, chili oil, Szechuan pepper corns, large chunks of proteins--can have a numbing effect on your mind and senses, which stops you from actively searching out for more in the immediate future. 

At the same time, the competency of these places is quite high and consistent across the board, much more than what you would get from, for example,  different Japanese, Thai or Indian restaurants in the city. For this reason, even an active foodie like me find little incentive to seek out a different Szechuan dig when there are already a number of reliable choices. 

Finally, a handful of standard dishes are a must for me to order when I try out a new Szechuan place, yet I understand what distinguishes these restaurants from one another might be hidden beneath the standards. But I guess that's a limitation I need to accept without the budget nor time nor body figure to dine out every meal.    

Chungking Spicy Chicken

It's not fair to say that you go to Cafe China for the vibe and decor, which is a standout among Chinese restaurants, because the food is excellent. But I think there's no doubt that's why it is awarded one Michelin star while the others aren't. The theme is that of elegant nostalgia, evoking a Romantic idea of China in the early 20th century when the cultures of the East and West were beautifully entwined. 

In a practical sense, the seating is comfortable, the lighting is more refined and dimmer than typical Chinese digs, and there's a nice, well-priced cocktail list. (However, the strong and over-powering cuisine all but obliterated the delicate taste and small portion of the cocktails--like trying to put out a big fire with a small glass of water.)   

"Husband and Wife" Special

Cafe China's version of this beloved dish excels at the tenderness of the beef and a well-balanced sauce. It wasn't too heavily greasy and was a nice starter. 

Chungking Braised Fish

I was pleasantly surprised that the fish was fresh and wasn't coated with anything. There were nice slices of tofu and veggies underneath the broth, which certainly carried enough heat and punch. 

During my visit, while the service was quick and efficient, it wasn't quite up to the  refinement of the overall mood that the restaurant wants to project. The wait staff seemed somewhat unease in its surrounding and was a bit of a distraction.

A Second Visit to Rouge et Blanc

A PERSONAL NOTE: Yours truly has recently suffered a physical injury that will keep him home-bound for at least until June. Needless to say, it will drastically limit the output of this blog. While having a few saved on file, I have been finding it difficult to write about things that I can no longer freely enjoy. 

As much as I want to look at the positives--oh, like the money saved and the little weight lost--this has left a giant hole in my life. But I hope to resume as summer time approaches and churn out a few that have stayed in the 'draft' section for way too long...

Sea Scallop with Cauliflower 

I was sufficiently impressed by Rouge et Blanc during my first visit that I went back for Valentine's Day. It did not disappoint in the department of vibe--tucked-away cozy, quietly romantic--and I give kudos to the restaurant for presenting the regular-priced menu. 

But as the meal progressed, I was yearning for more daring and vibrancy in flavors. Granted, a rather fine-tuned and gentle palette was doubtlessly the aim here, and it paired well with the extensive wine list (no beer or cocktail); the technique exhibited in the dishes was also terrific--I could find no fault in the execution and was very impressed by some ways the mushrooms were handled. The dishes were in fact tasty but with a largely demure spice and acidity level. 

Finally, I couldn't fathom a good reason that they altered the menu so much so that what I found to be the best bone-marrow dish I've ever had (just take a look at the previous blog post) was missing entirely! Quite shocked and disappointed even though I of course knew of it before going since I always study the menu beforehand. 

Crispy Pork Belly with Braised Red Cabbage and Green Apple

Vietnamese Beef Cheek with Rice Cake, Green Papaya, and Roasted Enoki

Brunch at North End Grill

"Sprawling," "classy," "comfort," and "a solid pastry department": these are words that popped into my mind after my meal at North End Grill. After struggling to find the place--despite easily spotting both Shake Shack and Blue Smoke BBQ on the way--I was glad the restaurant was buzzing but not overwhelmingly crowded. In fact, it was almost calm...definitely not a word associated with NYC's frenzy brunch scene.  

Before you enter the main dinning room, the layout of the restaurant takes you through a showcase of many essential components from which your meal is about to be made of: the glistening bar, the energetic open kitchen, the lofty wine cellar, the oyster shucking station, the homey pastry station, and coffee and espresso machines. The effect is inviting and impressive.

The notable thing about the drinks menu is that there's an entire page devoted to Scotch, and five different Bloody Marys, including one made with Captain Lawrence Beer. I chickened out and settled on a Mimosa, which was made with orange juice and very refreshing. 

Don't expect to find French toasts or a variety of omelets on the menu; in fact, only five items are strictly listed under the 'brunch' section. If you are in the mood for a brunch consists of raw oyster, pasta, clam pizza, to chicken burger, short rib burger, and even veggie burger, than you are in luck!  

Normally I would probably take up on the above offers, but after a big meal the previous night, I found plenty of comfort in the 'brunch' section and ordered up quite a bit of pastries and sweets.  

Chilaquiles with Bacon and Cheesy Scrambled Egg

This was actually quite good, although as you dug through the dish, two problems persisted: the big piece of tortilla was hard to cut into and the black beans gradually took over the whole plate and turned it into a dark, mushy mess.  Still, the flavors were well-defined and pleasant.

Johnnycake Benedict, Lamb Bacon, Poached Egg, Chipotle Hollandaise 

A nice twist on the traditional Egg Benedict. An overall good and satisfying dish. Never had Johnnycake before, this wasn't going to turn me on to it; nor could I really tell the difference of the bacon made of lamb. The standout was actually the hash browns--crispy and well-spiced. 

Little (Fatty) Sheep Mongolian Hot Pot

Everything is about brand--even hot-pot restaurants. The Little Sheep brand is synonymous with Mongolian hot pot, which is further defined by both the milky, herbal "white" soup base, and the oily, spicy "red" base. 

How popular is the brand? There has been another restaurant using the same name just a few steps away that have been in operation for years, and I have even bought the made-at-home soup packages at Chinese market.

But this Little Sheep Hot Pot claims to be authentic, with restaurants all over the world and a big plaque at the entrance.

As soon as you walk in, you will be hit by a waft of smell coming mostly from cumin. It wasn't unpleasant though a bit intense. I guess that's the price of admission. 

It says something about Chinese restaurant in general when we do a little cheer in our hearts whenever a restaurant presents descent and comfort seating in a reasonably clean area. On top of that if the service isn't rude, boy, you have hit the jackpot!  Let's hope they can keep this up as the restaurant ages. 

Frankly, for me that's the main difference about this place comparing to the other restaurant of the similar name. I don't find the soup base to be particularly different--heck, the ones I got from supermarket ain't bad neither! But the service here was efficient and the food came pretty fast on a busy night, while the other place has notoriously slow service. 

Lamb

Beef

These look nice, don't they? But they were too thin and in actuality not very big slices once unrolled. True, they cooked very quickly, but the mouth feel was quite disappointing.

Tribeca Canvas

Is Iron Chef Morimoto still relevant?  Especially to serious foodies?  I had my doubts until my first bite into the Shrimp Nachos at Tribeca Canvas, Morimoto's newest and second NY restaurant. Perfectly coated fried shrimps with colorful splashes of ranch dressing, spicy gochujang aioli, and guacamole, topped with sliced jalapenos and young bean sprouts, and all were somehow possible to be transported into your mouth via crispy tortilla chips. It's a marvel of a dish, not the least in its proportional execution where you can almost always get all the ingredients with every scoop.  

The nachos alone could make me forgive the high noise level created by the high ceiling, brick walls and the modest-sized space. The large long strips of canvases that are hanged all over the restaurant seem to do little to dampen the noise (and I find their appearances less appealing in person than in photo), and the temperature inside was too warm on the night of my visit. It didn't help when we were sandwiched by two rather loud tables, which were spaced quite tightly.  

Yeah, there are many shortcomings in management--not to mention the rather indifferent waiter and a dirty woman's room. Yet, the food was stellar, theatrical, pleasing, and well-priced so that I would no doubt return and hoping the rough edges will be smoothed out over time. 

Snack: Chicken Kara Age

Snack: Kurobota (Berkshire) Corn Dog

Two of my favorite fried foods. I was annoyed that the chicken came in wings and not the boneless tenders. On the other hand, these are expertly fried, but the scallion/ginger oil sauce that is a staple of any Chinese BBQ joint didn't quite work: it just felt too greasy when applied and the chicken itself should have been better seasoned to be eaten alone. 

I like the corn dog and the batter was more airy and much crispier than your regular cornmeal coating. The spicy ketchup it came with was tangy and perfect.

Lamb Ragu Bun

This is grouped into the "appetizer" category even though it would be a perfect snack! Deeply flavored lamb meat sauce with daikon and raita (a kind of Indian yogurt sauce) made every bite memorable and satisfying. 

The same can be said of the Hamachi Taco (not pictured) that was literally about 2 and a half bites big: crispy-shell taco filled with refreshing salsa and hamachi that made me pondering when have I ever had a chilled taco?  

Duck Duck Cous

A counterpart to the Duck Duck Duck dish at Morimoto's other restaurants, this dish was delicious if somewhat forgettable. The duck itself was succulent and masterfully cooked with unfailingly crispy skin, but they were cut to rather uneven thickness (strange...), and the rest of the dish was much less convincing. The duck-confit gyoza had very thin skin (yay!) but limp and floppy fillings (nay!). The couscous was fine though I would much rather have what the ribs were having...

Pig and Khao

Leah Cohen's Pig and Khao has slightly flown under the radar since it opened about half a year ago, but it might not be much longer as it was buzzing and full on a recent wintry Wednesday night. The decor, as mentioned in The New Yorker, is Momofuku-like: open kitchen, wooden tables, dark room with intense and bright lighting above the dinners. Unlike Momofuku, this place is on Opentable and you can easily make a reservation!  

I got a slight sense of disorientation as the staff, including the chef and cooks, is non-Asian, yet the food is quite thoroughly Asian. The service was fine though slightly hipster (read: inattentive) during my first visit; however, on my second visit a month later it was eager to please--almost too much so. Such a turn around must have been a managerial move and it's good to see and occurs all too rate in NYC.

Sizzling Sisig--pork head, chili, whole egg

To eat this with some coconut rice can rival the best comfort food in the world. The diced up pork-head meat was soft, melt-in-your-mouth except the nice char, and the flavors were sweet and spicy with sizzling fat.  

Crispy Red Curry Rice Salad--minced pork, crispy garlic, shallot, coriander, 

ginger, peanuts, lime-fish sauce

Why not make croutons out of rice?  The dish was otherwise similar to a good Thai larb dish. It was noticeably spicier on my first visit when Ms. Cohen was in the kitchen.  

Spiced Chickpeas--garam masala, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, 

garlic powder, thai chili powder, salt 

Everyone is frying chickpeas these days. These weren't as good as La Vara's. 

Daily Special: Fried Oysters with dipping sauce

Think popcorn shrimps made with tiny oysters. Not outstanding but nicely fried. 

Green Mango Salad--charred chicken, lemongrass, mint, 

coriander, cashew, dried shrimp

Despite the almost unappetizing appearance--pale chicken and milky sauce--this was actually very good. The chicken was very tender, flavorful, and juicy, while the green mango salad packed good heat with a strong but subtle dressing. 

Grilled Pork Jowl--watermelon, chicharron, toasted rice,

lime-chili fish sauce, herbs

This one had wonderful textural play and it was both refreshing and unabashedly meaty.  

Boulder Brewing Tasting at Stag's Head

Perhaps it has to do with the cold weather, the busy time of the year, and the fact that I've always been tasting and sampling plenty of craft beers just about all the time, the NYC craft beer week (2/22-3/2) never did much for me--this year was no exception. I found beer pairing dinners at bars suspicious and a few of the tasting classes/events were either sold out a long time ago or expensive. 

That said, I did make it to one event: Boulder Brewing at The Stag's Head, where on the first day of March, about ten beers from Boulder filled the taps. I ended up getting my hands on eight of them and here're the highlights and tasting notes:

First Round (from left): Honey Saison, Hoopla, Fresh Track, and Buffalo Gold

The best one for me is clearly the Fresh Track (4.9% abv), which is a beautifully calibrated pale ale. Highly drinkable, it has nice malty, yeasty taste and hints of citrus that match up wonderfully with the dry, grassy undertone of a pale ale.

The next in line is the Honey Saison, which has a whooping 11.5% abv, but quite sweet and smooth. My problem with it is I didn't find myself going back to it as often and it didn't taste as good after it warmed up a bit to room temperature. 

I couldn't stand the Buffalo Gold (4.8% abv): unpleasantly sour with a rather flat mouthfeel; glad it wasn't a whole pint. 

Second Round (from left): Obovoid Russian Imperial Stout, Never Summer, Singletrack Copper Ale, and Sweaty Betty Blonde

Perla

Just a few quick steps from Minetta Tavern sits Perla, an excellent and invigorating restaurant from the increasingly formidable Little Wisco group. The intimate, rustic, and even casual vibe of the restaurant belies the high price point--like the apartments in the area. But Perla, like Minetta Tavern, delivers on the food, which is likely to exceed your expectation.  

Veal tongue with capers, Tokyo turnips, and tonnato sauce

Start your meal with a home run: this appetizer was creamy and light, meaty yet refreshing, delicate but unpretentious. I cannot imagine coming here and not ordering this. 

Black spaghetti with rock shrimps and cauliflower

I like it when you share a dish, and the restaurant presents it in two self-sufficient, good-looking plates. The fresh spaghetti was excellent, and the overall composition was simple and to the point. Some could find this a bit salty.  

Short rib with funghi misti, sweet onion agrodolce, and bone marrow brodo

Quite a stunning dish: this was earthy, satisfying and elegant all at the same time. You will lick your plate clean off this one.